Which motor mounts do I use with the QSD H2B kit?

 

Simply put, each model kit retains the use of same B-series mounts corresponding to your chassis.  Our H2B kit does not relocate the B-series transmission.  No matter the chassis, the transmission remains in the same location as if the longblock was still a B-series.  Each kit includes a different engine mount bracket specific to the different chassis that allows the use of the drivers side B-series engine mount.

 

We Do Not recommend the use of any OEM mounts alone.  These mounts are now past there lifespan.  With any performance application, whether were talking a B or H2B, upgrading your engine mounts builds strength and reliability into your entire drivetrain. 

 

 

Which rear T-bracket do I use? 

 

 You will use the same T-bracket as if is a B-series setup within your chassis.

- EF/DA uses DA

- EG/DC uses DC

- EK uses 99+ SI

 

 

Which flywheel and clutch do I use?

 

Our innovative crankshaft spacer and ARP flywheel bolt have been designed to be extremely universal. Any B-series flywheel and clutch combination can work with our kit. 

 

Any B-series twin disc setup is a proprietary design specific to that company.  Some twins utilize a thinner flywheel body to accommodate room for additional clutch disc.  We can shorten the bolts to whatever length is needed.  This can always be completed down the road if the twin disc route is chosen.  Prior to installing the flywheel bolts make sure to measure your combined depth to assure there is adequate clearance.

 

 

Do I need custom axles or is the shift linkage changed in any way? 

 

No.  The transmission does not budge from where it sits as if you have a B-series setup.  The same B-series axles and shift linkage are retained.  No custom axles or the shift linkage are required.

 

 

What components remain from the H-series drivetrain?

 

Nothing, zip, zero.  The H2B utilizes entire B-series drivetrain from the flywheel out to the axle nut.  As simple as it sounds it is very convenient and economical conversion for an existing B-series owner.

 

 

What about the engine management, the wiring?

 

This is the beauty of the H-series.  Because the engine is generation specific to our chassis', the wiring should be looking at just like a DC GSR wiring.  Deciding which engine management to use is your choice, though most tend to fall back to the OBD-I wiring schema for the simplicity.  Using your cars existing engine harness is not out of the question and is commonly used.  

 

 

So all I need from the H-series is the long-block and it's surrounding components?

 

Correct.  Long-block, intake & exhaust manifold/header, distributor & an alternator.  

 

 

Will the kit work with an SH engine block?

 

Our adapter plate will technically bolt up to any H-series engine.  However, the newer late model SH engines used with the ATTS transmission were designed with a completely different block casting.  The rear of the block is completely different from all other including the standard models from the same year and does not work with our B-series intermediate axle adapter.  It’s been done, we've done it, but you will have to weld the 3 core mounts onto the block.  These blocks are so far and few in between it is just best to pass on them and get a standard block.

 

 

What about the F20B and H23V, and which engine is QSD's number one choice?


Yes both will work with our kit.  Most like ourselves are performing the concept for the natural aspirated performance.  Our recommendation has always been to Go BIG, which in OEM form the H23V offers the most bang for you buck against any N/A 4 cylinder engine in Honda's performance lineup today.

 

 

I read somewhere that hood clearancing is required, do different generation H-series have different clearancing?

 

Yes minimal hood clearancing is required, and no all H-series including the F20B have the same deck height so that does not effect anything related to hood clearance.  Our H2B concept trades form for function in a few ways and this is the first sacrifice you must make to optimize the position of your drivetrain.  The position of form over function has been one of major flaws of a conventional H-series swap, where hood clearance is gained at the sacrificed for axle geometry and sacred ground clearance.

 

As the generations have become newer, Honda has presented larger engine bays both side to side and ground to hood clearance.  DA, EG, & DC owners can run an OEM hood while spacing the rear hinges 1.5 inches.  Our Hoody Pops are a nice compliment for this.  The EF faithful have it the worst.  The JDM SIR style hood helps clearance tremendously.  EK guys are the lucky ones.  The hood can close completely without spacers.

 

 

What must be done to the drivers side framerail?

 

Drivers side framerail clearance is tight within all chassis'.  Think about it.  It is because you are replacing a B-series block with a physically wider H-series and the use of an adapter plate while reaping the benefits from not relocating your transmission.  

 

These are 4 items that will come close or in contact with the framerail.

 

- The rear balancing shafts counter gear assembly

- The timing/balancing shaft belt tensioner bolt

- The crank pulley

- The alternator

 

If you are choosing to run the above the OEM position, you will be massaging your framerail with a body dolly and mallet.  Most H2B enthusiast end up not using all the these OEM components as there are several aftermarket and even other OEM parts you can use to make clearance without touching your framerail.

 

We have created our Alternative alternator relocator brackets to assist with options for clearance.  It is designed to be used and align a B-series alternator with the H-series crank pulley.  This is very helpful with clearance as a B-series uses a 4-rib belt compared to the H-series 6-rib.

 

 

What about the grinding for axle clearance? Is it a lot?

 

No it is not.  You must minimally clearance the rear of the H-series block along the oil pan rail towards the oil pump to create the window needed for the drivers side CV axle.  Our intermediate axle adapter helps outline it and an instruction guide is to walk you threw this and every process.

 

 

Does QSD make or plan to make an H2B kit for any of the Accord or Prelude chassis?

 

Unfortunately we do not.  Our kits are designed solely for the Honda Civic/CRX and Acura Integra chassis'.

 

 

Okay, and if I have any other questions?

 

Please contact us directly either by email or by phone at the information below.  When it comes to the H2B concept no one, I repeat no one has been involved or seen more than us.  We may have not performed it all as we have enthusiasts putting this concept in everything from Sand rails to VW bugs, but we do keep up to day on all things H2B related.  You read a lot of misinformation amongst the internet and Face Book specifically.  If in doubt, give us a call.

 

GoBIGorgohome@quartersportsdrag.com

 

(916) 792-1549